Is There Hope For Fashion Season?

Is There Hope For Fashion Season?

Photography : Style Icon Ltd

Fashion season Fall/Winter 2021/2022 officially came to an end on Wednesday 10th March —nonetheless, the future of fashion looks very trendy, indeed. I would typically feel relieved at the end of fashion month and feel a sense of pride for soldiering through London, Milan, and Paris fashion weeks, retrospectively. New York is still missing from my fashion season schedule due to time, budget, and the possibility of burnout, though I have a post-lockdown plan to conquer NYFW vehemently. I miss the real-life experience of attending a fashion show, but the digital shows are more accessible and invitation-friendly. I remain hopeful that the runway shows will make a dazzling come back next season, but any immediate change is a long shot.

Post-Lockdown Wardrobe

Fall/Winter 2021/2022 sees the return of some spectacular trends, which should provide enough ammunition to ditch your existing casual staples for a new and exciting post-lockdown wardrobe. There is so much to feel optimistic about – that long-awaited holiday, social engagements, or a new job, perhaps; hence, make a stylish effort for your grand appearance. After almost a year in hiding, why not pull out all the stops to unleash your inner beast of style. Show the world that your fashion savviness still exists and follow fashion season as your guide to becoming a trendier version of yourself.

The Big Four

London Fashion Week always offers a raw spin on upcoming trends compared to New York, Milan, and Paris. I love all four cities, each representing different cultural values that influence their fashion palette. As a Londoner, I love the gritty street style of London town. Milan conquers all for exquisite style and genius craftsmanship. Everybody loves romantic Paris, and New York adds magic to the mix. The amalgamation of all four fashion capitals creates an explosive sensation of snap, crackle, and pop.

LFW FW21-22 Top Shows

Dunhill ‘Compendium’ combines utility and formality and highlights a relaxed approach to sophistication. The collection showcases the classic parka, split-hem trousers, seat-strap shoes, and cross-body bumbags, all of which encompass the theme of multi-functionality.

Simone Rocha’s collection is synonymous with romanticism, with a focus on uniformity and naivety. Keep an eye out for embroidered tulles, hand-painted flowers on pearls, the leather jacket, and statement tops with billowing sleeves. Baby-doll dresses are also making a comeback. Fashion has a way of repeating itself, especially from the 1960s to the 1990s. Subsequently – bold accessories, platforms, and biker boots may grace your wardrobe once again.

Classic Tailoring

Erdem’s collection epitomises the ballet and offers exquisite pieces, such as oversized jewelled embellishment, slouchy glamour, overcoats, blanket-type shawls, ostrich feather hairbands, and duchess gowns with supersized crystals in pink and red.

Paul Costelloe has always opened London Fashion Week. His Fall/Winter 2021/2022 show pays homage to classic tailoring. Additionally, there is a focus on sculptured outerwear, stretch leggings, wool plaids, geometric prints, midnight blues presented in bold checks, and tweeds from Austria. Softly constructed eveningwear also plays a crucial role in Paul Costelloe’s show. Furthermore, his accessories present themselves in bold, bright structures that add a powerful statement. ‘After a year of uncertainty, the Costelloe woman is bold, brave and optimistic’ (Paul Costelloe).

The ’90s Revival

The Burberry collection encompasses tailoring, which appears to be the central theme of Fall/Winter 2021/2022. On the contrary, the skirt-over-trousers trend has weirdly returned from the ’90s. Girl group B*witched made it a popular trend. Burberry has now added its classic spin to a look that is like Marmite, somewhat. I think that is my least favourite of trends thus far. Are we on the same page? Or perhaps it is an acquired taste. Burberry offers a beige blend, red, grey, and black vis-a-vis an autumnal colour palette.

The Swinging ’60s & ’70s

Temperley London takes us back to the ’60s and ’70s through a musical journey supported by style icons like Jimmi Hendrix. The predominant themes are leather pants, flared trousers, and separates. Furthermore, cotton corduroy tailoring has reemerged along with denim, the classic three-piece Italian velvet clove suit, leopard jacquard, sleeveless roll-neck, the mini dress, and Broderie Anglaise.

Opulence and Power-dressing

Emilia Wickstead offers Italian bourgeoisie, neutral tailoring, timeless wool jackets, ’90s minimalism, classicism, and modernity. She is one of my favourite British designers whose work is effortlessly chic with beautiful fabric and vibrant colour.

Roksanda Ilincic is another favourite. Her FW21/22 collection was a replica of romanticism when flamboyant styles were at the forefront of fashion. Oversized, billowing silhouettes made from taffeta and silk organza, ruffled necklines, classic tailoring, double-breasted jackets, and slim-fitted trousers dominate the collection.

Sabirah by Deborah Latouche – launched in February 2020 – offers exquisite tailoring in repurposed fabrics which constitutes a significant part of her collection. Bell-dresses in silk taffeta with exaggerated shoulder and sleeve detail represent strength. Sustainability underpins the brand’s core message. Sabirah is one to watch.

MFW FW21-22 Top Shows

  • A Tribute to Beppe Modenese – Honorary President of Camera Nationale Della Moda Italiana (CNMI) since 1995 who passed away on 21 November 2020. “21 November 2020” is the film by Beniamino Barrese, produced by The Blink Fish.
  • Black Lives Matter In Italian Fashion – Collective. “We Are Made In Italy” – curated by Stella Jean, Edward Buchanan, Michelle Francine Ngonmo and CNMI – showcased the creative vision of five talented people of colour (POC).
  • Missoni
  • Fendi
  • Alberta Ferretti
  • Blumarine
  • Etro
  • Genny
  • Phillip Plein
  • Maxmara
  • Ermanno Scervino
  • Dolce and Gabbana

PFW FW21-22 Top shows

  • Louis Vuitton
  • Paul Smith
  • Vivienne Westwood
  • Lanvin
  • Giambattista Valli
  • Christian Dior
  • Chanel
  • Balmain
  • Chloe
  • Givenchy

Fashion Season’s Top Trends

  • Tailoring
  • Oversized jewelled embellishment
  • Statement pieces, i.e. oversized collars/shoulders, billowing sleeves
  • Plaid/Tartan
  • The 60s/70s baby-doll dresses, flares, leather
  • Masculinity vs Femininity
  • Bardot style
  • Split hems
  • Embroidery
  • Paper-bag waist trousers
  • Romanticism taffeta and 
  • 90s glam rock, studs
  • Cut-out detail
  • Skirt-over-trousers
  • Tulle applique skirts/dresses
  • Butterfly motif

Top Accessories FW21-22 Season

  • Bumbag 
  • Embellished jewellery, i.e. necklaces
  • Pearl-embellished headband
  • Jewelled garter and drop earrings by Chanel
  • Oversized clutch bag
  • Belts (thin or wide cinched in at the waist)
  • Bangles
  • Vintage hat-box bags
  • Opera gloves
  • Fur scarves
  • Statement sunglasses
  • Chunky earrings
  • Stretch leggings

Top Colours/Prints FW21-22 Season

  • Yellow ochres
  • Monochrome
  • Lapis-blue
  • Ceder greens
  • Forest green
  • Burnt oranges
  • Checks
  • Wool plaids
  • Geometric prints
  • Floral
  • Beige blend
  • Plum
  • Purple
  • Merino cable knit
  • Opulent gold
  • Brocade combined with olive green
  • Pastel colours
  • Black-brown combo

Fashion Season Is Here To Stay

The future is looking bright and hopeful. Somewhere over the rainbow, I see a positive change in the fashion industry on all levels. The pandemic has crippled it, indeed, but it has democratised fashion season in terms of global, online access. The only thing currently missing is a new outfit and shoes for that leap of faith into the future.

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Style Icon Nat

Award-winner of the 2020 UK Enterprise Awards for most innovative celebrity stylist & lifestyle writer, Natalie is London based. Additionally, she is known for her work as a content creator and launched her blog in 2017 - Style Icon Nat's The Lifestyle Collective. The latter consolidated her creative skills and supports lifestyle, fashion and beauty brands. Natalie's fashion journey began in Harrods and Browns - South Molton Street, where she worked as a fashion consultant. In 2004, Natalie continued her fashion career as a personal shopper in Selfridges and set up Style Icon Ltd (a personal shopping company) in 2005. This led to worldwide travel for private clients, red carpet styling, student mentoring, public speaking at LFW, Clothes Show Live and British Airways corporate events. The end goal is to inspire, motivate and educate people globally. Natalie has a BA (Honours) degree in social policy & politics, PGCE and creative writing certification from Central St Martins.


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